Adventure Diving the Unforgettable Galapagos

TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL HARRIGAN

There is no other place on earth like the Galapagos Islands. Four major ocean currents intersect there, over a thin spot in the earth's crust that still spouts hot lava. Much of the coastal terrain appears desolate and prehistoric. Marine iguanas sun themselves on the volcanic rock next to penguins and sealions. Hammerhead Sharks patrol below, their bizarre profiles shaped by 300 million years of evolution. Redlipped Batfish, apparently constructed from the cosmic spare parts bin, sit serenely on the bottom, fishing for their prey. Magnificent Manta Rays fly past underwater, scooping up bucketfuls of plankton. Diving the Galapagos is like a trip to another time.

Top: Scalloped Hammerhead, Roca Redonda.

Lammer Law was our time machine, a vessel far more luxurious than any science fiction writer has dreamed. With a length of 93 feet and a beam of 42, Lammer Law has exceptional stability and interior space. The huge salon, with wall to wall carpeting, sectional couches and coffee tables, is more like an estate living room than a compartment on a boat. The excess size carries over into the nine bedrooms, each with a private bath, fine furniture and individually controlled air-conditioning. Large overhead hatches and windows in each room make the ambiance light and airy. Forget about cramped bunk beds-Lammer Law is equipped with queen sized beds that convert to twins in all cabins. Meals are served on the teak aft deck, with immaculate linens and sparkling flatware. We ate like royalty!

Above: A marine iguana's regal pose on Santiago Island. Below: Galapagos Tortoise, Darwin Station, Santa Cruz.

SUNDAY
Mathias Espinosa, a Galapagos Park Naturalist and our divemaster, showed us around Lammer Law's spacious dive deck, where individual storage bins and aluminum 80s were provided for each of us. We set up our BCs and regulators once, then the crew took care of everything. The tanks were quickly filled after each dive.

Galapagos diving is done from dinghies because it is not possible to anchor directly over the dive sites. Lammer Law's trimaran design makes boarding the dinghies a snap. Two sets of wide steps lead down to the dinghies, which rest securely on either side of the main hull. The dinghies are roomy, stable Carib 20 foot rigid hull inflatables.

The first dive was a warm-up in shallow water and extra weights were brought out so we could make adjustments to our belts. The action underwater started right away, with a school of Golden Cowrays passing overhead. We also saw a preview of the colorful fish to come during the week.

MONDAY
Scalloped Hammerheads visited us for the first time this morning at North Seymour. Impressive would be an understatement! We also got a taste of the currents and thermoclines that make the Galapagos a destination for experienced divers. We found Mat was right when he told us the visibility changes from day to day and site to site. The visibility actually changed during the course of a dive. Most of the time we had 60 to 80 feet but we also had a number of spectacular dives with visibility of more than 100 feet.

About halfway through the dive my partner and I came across an incredibly thick aggregation of Yellowtail Grunts. We were able to hover right in their midst. Just as we left the grunts, blue footed boobies began diving from far above us. They hit the water like arrows, leaving a U-shaped trail of bubbles as they penetrated as deep as 20 feet to snare a fish.

TUESDAY
At dawn we were anchored near Roca Redonda, a monolith thrust from the water well away from the other islands. Shearwaters and petrels skimmed the water all around us.

Before breakfast we dropped out of the dinghy next to a school of hundreds of closely packed Barracuda that scarcely reacted to our intrusion. First, we stopped to see the geysers bubbling through the bottom in about 30 feet of water. From there, stacks of boulders covered with barnacles and orange sponges form a slope down to about 50 feet, where the bottom levels out in volcanic rubble. We drifted down through schools of Yellowtailed Surgeonfish, Galapagos Grunts and King Angelfish.

At first we saw only one or two Scalloped Hammerheads, then small groups of three and four. Finally, the main pack slid into view from the blue haze, 70 or more magnificent animals, each eight to ten feet long. Before we surfaced the whole pack wheeled past us three more times. Those strangely flattened heads are so extraordinary! They are unforgettable, especially at close quarters.

On the way back to Lammer Law, we approached a group of Galapagos Sealions resting at the surface. Some of us slipped into the water and eased over to the group. Several sealions checked us out but then we were admitted to the fold and snorkeled for a while in their midst.

Roca Redonda was as far north as we traveled during our week, however, there are 10 day trips on Lammer Law available that include Wolf and Darwin Islands. Conditions are variable from trip to trip in the Galapagos but if you have the time available, these islands have a reputation for big animal encounters.

WEDNESDAY
Overnight, Rolando had moved Lammer Law to Cabo Marshall on the eastern side of Isabela, crossing to the south side of the equator once again. We were eager to dive here because it is known to be frequented by Manta Rays. We weren't disappointed. Two large mantas came by at the beginning of the dive and a third visited with us briefly at the end. In between we saw a dozen or so Whitetipped Reef Sharks, including four that were resting in a shallow cave. We found a large school of the endemic Black Striped Salema.

In the afternoon we went ashore at Puerto Egos, the site of an old salt farm. The trail took us along the beach for about 30 minutes and the wildlife was incredible. From birds such as the redbeaked oyster catcher and cactus finch to playful Fur Sealions and basking marine iguanas, we went from one up-close encounter to another.

To round out the day we made a night dive at Rabida Island. It was an easy 10 to 20 foot dive. The ledges were packed with sea turtles, eels, sleeping Creolefish, Spiny Lobster, octopus, Leopard Flounders and blennies. The best part, though, was the incredible phosphorescence. Even those who stayed aboard Lammer Law enjoyed the light show put on by the sealions as they streaked through the water leaving a glowing trail behind.

THURSDAY
Before our early morning dive at Cousins Rock, Mat said his toe was tingling-supposedly a sure sign of an impending world-class dive. He should take good care of that toe because his prediction was right on. We dropped into crystal conditions, with Cousins' characteristic ledges visible like giant steps on a monument. Starfish littered the sand about 150 feet below us and puffs of green coral sprouted in the fold of each ledge. A 12 foot Manta Ray hovered for a moment, shivered briefly, then accelerated quickly away through a cloud of Creolefish and Barracuda. We swam along the ledges, watching all three species of Galapagos Hawkfish; Coral, Longnosed and Hieroglyphic, dart among the corals and rocks. Eventually we stopped at the end of the point, in about 45 feet, and that's where the show really started. First a trio of Hammerheads cruised by, then a pair of sealions. From the opposite direction, a lone Spotted Eagle Ray flapped gently through our ranks. This one was followed by eight more and then all nine wheeled around and glided slowly over, silhouetted against the brilliant sun only a few feet away, When they finally departed, a pair of Green Sea Turtles came by to inspect us. Then the sealions came back, this time with some of their compadres in a playful mood. What a dive!

We made two more dives during the day at Cousins Rock, each time encountering sealions, turtles, Hammerheads and a multitude of reef fish. The conditions were so good we were also able to make a rare night dive here. Each crevice was packed with fish and invertebrates.

FRIDAY
This was our day to see Santa Cruz, starting with a tour of the highlands. After the parched and barren landscape of the coast, the highlands were a pleasant contrast. After seeing Galapagos Tortoises in the wild and touring huge lava tubes and sinkholes, we lunched at a country inn. Our next stop was the famous Darwin Station, where we walked among the tortoises and toured several natural history museums. Afterward we had some free time in town to shop and enjoy the local entertainment.

SATURDAY
With our residual nitrogen levels reset, we were back in the water early, this time at Gordon Rocks on the northeast side of Santa Cruz. Between the two rocks that break the surface, there are three vertical ridges that come to within 30 or 40 feet of the surface. The ridges attract everything from tiny blennies to big Hammerheads.

One of our most dynamic dives was at North Plaza Island. With a pure sand bottom about 20 feet down and a steep, rocky shoreline, it was like swimming in a pool with playful sealions. For more than an hour we stood on our heads, zigzagged back and forth and generally behaved like kids on a playground.

SUNDAY
Although Sunday is primarily a travel day, we started off with an excursion ashore and a delightful encounter with a large group of one and two year old sealions. Their unbridled curiosity led them right up to our feet. It was a great way to leave these amazing islands.

SUPER CREW
Lammer Law's crew made our Galapagos trip great. Mat Espinosa, the naturalist and divemaster who was mentioned earlier, guided us safely from one fascinating discovery to another, with a flair that made it all fun. Captain Rolando Garcia ran Lammer Law with an assured competence and an engaging smile. Nelson Zambrano has been the boat's engineer for eight years and his skill is reflected in the smoothness with which everything works. Johnny Fuloaga and Tony Cedeno drove the dinghies and operated the deck equipment. Johnny and Tony were always in the right place at the right time, making our diving as easy as possible. Llobasny Briones and Nicolas Sancan, Lammer Law's chef and assistant chef, plied us with delicious meals from morning to night, with outstanding service provided by John Fitzgerald. One of the reasons the service aboard Lammer Law is so good is the company has an excellent on-site manager, Felipe de la Torre. Stationed in the Galapagos, Felipe ensures the freshest produce is delivered, needed spares are available and any guest travel problems are sorted out quickly.

TRAVEL INFORMATION
The Galapagos sit astride a complex set of ocean currents and trade winds generated from both sides of the equator. As a result the climate is very mild year-round, with two seasons. During the hot season from January to May, the southeast trade winds diminish and slightly warmer water moves in from the north. The garua or misty season, from June to December, is characterized by generally increased trade winds and the influx of slightly cooler water from the south. The water temperature is generally between 65 and 75 degrees F but can sometimes be warmer or cooler. Layering is a good way to go, starting with a wetsuit in the 5 to 7mm range. For those cooler dives you can add a vest, hood and gloves for increased warmth.

Above water, T-shirts and shorts are comfortable nearly all the time. One pair of long pants and a light jacket can be useful in the evenings and in Quito, where the altitude keeps the air cool. Ecuador is called Pais del Sol or "Land of the Sun" because it is on the equator, so sunscreen is essential even though the climate is mild. Likewise a hat that shades your neck and face is a good idea for the shore excursions. Insect repellent can be useful on those nights when the wind dies.

A pair of sneakers or walking shoes are needed for shore excursions. For wet landings you carry your shoes and go ashore through ankle deep water on a sandy beach.

Sucres are the official currency of Ecuador, trading at just under 3,000 per dollar at this writing. Dollars and credit cards are also accepted in many places. One dollar bills come in handy for tips, taxi rides and other small expenses. Be prepared with cash, either dollars or sucres, for the $80 Galapagos Park fee, the $11 municipal tax on Baltra and the $25 departure tax from Ecuador.

A passport is required for entry into Ecuador. American Airlines provides nonstop service from Miami to Quito, where an overnight stay is necessary before continuing on via the Ecuadorian airline TAME to the Galapagos. There are several excellent, reasonably priced hotels, such as the Akros or Alameda, within ten minutes of the Quito airport.

For more information or to make reservations for a Lammer Law trip, call (800) 648-3393 or write to Trimarine, P.O. Box 4065, St. Thomas, USVI 00803. Information can also be obtained by fax at (809) 494-5774.